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Having been a certified trainer for many years, mostly lately I work on teaching weekly classes. I started with working with dogs for police work, and lately just classes in obedience. Also working with dogs that want to get into therapy work. This requires the dogs ( and handlers) to be able to pass the TDI and CGC test.
Here is the information on what is required to pass the Therapy dog or Therapy Dog International test. Its the same test- the only difference is if you want your dog registered on a national registry ( TDI) or just work locally at certain hospitals.
Testing Requirements
AKC CGC TEST® / PLUS ADDED TDI REQUIREMENTS
* TDI Requirements are displayed in italics
Test 1: Accepting a Friendly Stranger
This test demonstrates that the dog will allow a friendly stranger to approach it and speak to the handler in a natural, everyday situation. The Evaluator and handler shake hands and exchange pleasantries. The dog must show no sign of resentment or shyness, and must not break position or try to go to the Evaluator.
The dog must be tested around medical equipment (such as a wheelchair, crutches, cane, walker, or other devices which would ordinarily be found in a facility) to judge the dog’s reactions to common health care equipment. At the discretion of the Evaluator, this part of the test may be included in any of the following tests: 2,3,5 or 9
Test 2: Sitting Politely for Petting
This test demonstrates that the dog will allow a friendly stranger to touch it while it is out with its handler. The dog should sit at the handler’s side as the Evaluator approaches and begins to pet the dog on the head and body only. The dog may stand in place to accept petting. The dog must not show shyness or resentment.
Test 3: Appearance and Grooming
This practical test demonstrates that the dog will welcome being groomed and examined and will permit a stranger, such as a veterinarian, groomer or friend of the owner, to do so. It also demonstrates the owner’s care, concern and sense of responsibility. The Evaluator inspects the dog, then combs or brushes the dog, and lightly examines the ears and each front foot.
Test 4: Out For a Walk
(Walking on a Loose Leash)
This test demonstrates that the handler is in control of the dog. The dog can be on either side of the handler, whichever the handler prefers. There must be a left turn, a right turn and an about turn, with at least one stop in between and another at the end. The dog need not be perfectly aligned with the handler and need not sit when the handler stops.
Test 5: Walking Through a Crowd
This test demonstrates that the dog can move about politely in pedestrian traffic and is under control in public places. The dog and handler walk around and pass close to several people (at least three). The dog may show some interest in the strangers, without appearing overexuberant, shy or resentful. The handler may talk to the dog and encourage or praise the dog throughout the test. The dog should not be straining at the leash.
Test 6: Sit and Down on Command/Staying in Place
This test demonstrates that the dog has training, will respond to the handler’s command to sit and down, and will remain in the place commanded by the handler (sit or down position, whichever the handler prefers). The handler may take a reasonable amount of time and use more than one command to make the dog sit and then down. When instructed by the Evaluator, the handler tells the dog to stay and walks forward the length of a 20-foot line. The dog must remain in place, but may change positions.
Test 7: Coming when Called
This test demonstrates that the dog will come when called by the handler. The handler will walk 10 feet from the dog, turn to face the dog, and call the dog. The handler may use encouragement to get the dog to come. Handlers may choose to tell the dog to “stay” or “wait,” or they may simply walk away, giving no instructions to the dog as the Evaluator provides mild distraction (e.g., petting).
Test 8: Reaction to Another Dog
This test demonstrates that the dog can behave politely around other dogs. Two handlers and their dogs approach each other from a distance of about 10 yards, stop, shake hands and exchange pleasantries, and continue on for about 5 yards. The dogs should show no more than a casual interest in each other.
Test 9: Reactions to Distractions
This test demonstrates that the dog is confident at all times when faced with common distracting situations, such as the dropping of a large book or a jogger running in front of the dog. The dog may express a natural interest and curiosity and/or appear slightly startled, but should not panic, try to run away, show aggressiveness or bark.
Leave-It: The handler with the dog on a loose leash walks past food on the ground (placed within a distance of three feet) and, upon command, the dog should ignore the food. (Please note: TDI does not permit the use of food/treats during actual therapy dog visits.)
Acclimation to Infirmities: This test demonstrates the dog’s confidence when exposed to people walking with an uneven gait, shuffling, breathing heavily, coughing, wheezing or other distractions which may be encountered in a facility.
Test 10: Supervised Separation
This test demonstrates that a dog can be left with a trusted person, if necessary, and will maintain its training and good manners. Evaluators are encouraged to say something like, “Would you like me to watch your dog?” and then take hold of the dog’s leash. The owner will go out of sight for three minutes. The dog does not have to stay in position but should not continually bark, whine, or pace unnecessarily, or show anything stronger than mild agitation or nervousness.
Test 11: Say Hello
The TDI Certified Evaluator will test the willingness of each dog to visit a person and that the dog can be made readily accessible for petting (i.e., small dogs can be placed on a person’s lap or can be held, medium and larger dogs can sit on a chair or stand close to the patient to be easily reached.)
The dog must be able to work well around all types of populations, including children. The dog's behavior around children must be evaluated during testing. It is important that during the testing the potential therapy dog and the children are not in direct contact. This means the dog can only be observed for a reaction toward playing, running or in general children present at the testing site. Any negative reaction by the dog will result in automatic failure. Negative reaction means a dog showing signs of aggression.
Additional Rules for TDI Testing
1. Dogs must be tested on a plain buckle collar or harness. Training collars, training harnesses, halties, or any other corrective devices are not permitted during testing or visiting as a TDI registered Therapy Dog.
2. Greyhounds are not required to sit for tdi testing.
Note: Potential applicants are not required to take any therapy dog classes, which are not sanctioned by TDI.
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How to raise a puppy or encourage a show puppy:
So- after hours, weeks, months of studying pedigrees, talking with breeders, finding the perfect one, big goals in mind, or maybe just simply wanting to raise a great companion- now you have a puppy. There will be a second follow up to helping an older pup or adult after adopting, but for now this is about helping to train a puppy for show.
Hopefully your puppy has already come from a breeder that exposed the puppy to normal household operations- i.e. dishwashers, ice makers, the vacuum cleaner, stairs etc. However- even if exposed to this at the breeders home, the concept of applying to a new home still needs to be done. In this article I am hoping to help " fill the gap" in new home training. Also- remember certain things such as dishwashers or vac cleaners, different models sound different.
Lets start with confidence building. Puppies are born with two primal fears- fear of heights or falling, and second a sudden loud noise that could mean danger. Lets start with the first- fear of falling .This is the same instinct that a puppy has to 'upright' themselves when held on their back or picked up. In picking a puppy up, simply supporting the feet helps with this. As far as heights- This is also why, so commonly, stairs are over whelming to puppies. Going up maybe easy as that is just climbing- however coming down is flat out frightening by nature. Additionally, especially with sight hounds, the days are making the world seem different in dimension as they grow in height. Additionally the lack of control in the knees gives the puppy the impression of falling down. However- picking the puppy up to go up or down stairs only more so enforces the puppy that now they are " up in the air" regardless of how they are held.
** How I start this is by one person when going upstairs is calling the puppy, the second is there as support to " block the sight" of the steps already traveled- i.e. giving a height definition. It takes awhile, but this also helps later with also teaching as an adult not to rush the steps upwards.
** to Teach coming down- do the same thing in reverse in some ways. The person in front of the puppy is only a step or two below the puppy. Calling in a gentle and CALM voice- i.e. this is not big deal taking it slowly. Also if the puppy over 'shoots' the steps coming down, the lower person can catch the puppy.
With practice it doesn't take long for the steps to easily be mastered.
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Now- lets move onto noises. It is totally normal for a puppy to be startled by a sudden loud noise. A sudden loud noise to a dog is also hears as a " yelp" even if the pitch doesn't sound like it. A yelp means hurt also means 'danger'.
I start my puppies with toys that make noise. The best toy in the world for a puppy is a empty soda bottle. Starting with a single 16 oz bottle, the puppy quickly learns just because something bangs around, is unpredictable, it wont hurt " me". You will see in all my videos that have a young puppy, I am using empty soda bottles. All toys should be supervised with a young puppy- but in general this is how it works. At first the cap is on so the puppy can not " flatten" the soda bottle, the label is removed. Advancing to larger bottles ( like juice bottles or milk gallon containers.
At dog shows sudden loud noises are common place. This is a start to teaching the puppy the concept that a sudden loud noise, or unpredictable movement is a great thing to investigate.
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Now moving onto normal appliances in a home. Remember- even if the puppy was introduced to these items in their home, the concept of applying it to the 'new home' still needs to be established. Using the fact the soda bottle training- i.e. something makes noise and is fun, at first the puppy should hear first, then see the item. I start by running the vac in the next room or behind a child gate so they can watch the action but without it coming in too closely. Do this for several days without the puppy actually coming in close contact yet. When you notice is basically only glancing and then ignoring the activity, you can progress from there. Also- by learning to ignore the noise ( the vac especially) also discourages chasing the object ( a common pet peeve with dog owners and they wonder how it got started. ...)
Other objects like the dishwasher or a ice maker first are used when the puppy is within site, but remember to keep your body posture calm and collected- i.e. non chalant...
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Another subject for the puppy is how do I meet a stranger, or greet my owner (s). One thing a person does is " OH MY - WHAT A CUTE PUPPY" WITH elevated excited voice etc and sudden even physical contact. Even your own arrival into the home or meeting first thing in the morning letting the puppy out of the crate etc. Or letting back into the house from the yard.. How the owner handles this affects puppies to adult dogs coming into a new home, and defines 'what is expected of them'. Done improperly the owner ends up with anything from separation anxiety, over zealous in meeting new people or other dogs, fear of new people etc. All basically from a simple line of logic- the puppy or adult suddenly does not know how to handle a change in stimulus. It all goes back to anticipating a greeting. ( i.e. is it positive to negative - over the top or calm and casual..). Even in a wolf pack the return of pack members in observation is rather reserved, casual in fact at first.
With puppy to adult, any change in people etc is more approached in this casual nature. This is hard to do like if the door bell suddenly rings for example. Slow casual walking to the door by the person, deep breath exhales ( dog language for ignoring or casual) done consistently and not opening the door until all is calm, is the key. Same with returning home- open the door, put your things up, casual " how are you " calm pet but move on and waiting a few minutes like to give a cookie or going outside etc. Letting out of the crate- same thing- just open and walk on through casual. Friends coming over, they talk to you, again- ignoring in casual conversation the dog and move on only once things have calmed down. This also helps with separation anxiety as the dog learns that while something or someone to greet, we are just moving along in a casual nature.
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Michelle Copeland
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